Archive: May 2012

An Intro to Trad

With another day of fantastic weather we headed to Holyhead mountain with 2 clients for an intro to North Wales Trad climbing, both clients had a little experiance of indoor climbing and some outdoor bolt clipping and were super keen to learn the basics of the dark art of Trad!

We started off with a workshop on gear placement, belay building and a little bit of stance management and then chose a nice route on Ramp C to start us off (pigeon hole crack S4a) i led the way lacing the route up to give the guys plenty of practice of removing and re-placing the gear, when my second reached me he built his own belay then brought the third up, we continued on this theme for the rest of the morning switching seconds each time and throwing a few more complicated stances.

After lunch we headed over to the Alcove to try some slightly more technical climbing and tackled Teaser vs4c and Laceration vs 5a, on these routes we were joined by a pair of swooping Choughs which added to the already great day, Tomorrow we are going to put all the new found skills into practice with the guys going on the sharp end with there first trad leads!

Posted in Mountain adventures

Climbing coaching day

With another great day of weather came a great day of performance climbing coaching, we had a group of nine who wanted to improve there sport climbing technique in order to push there grades a little! after a quick early morning chat to establish the groups needs and aspirations we headed out to a local user friendly sport venue (Castle inn quarry)

We started off the day by putting up some top ropes on varying grades so we could establish a workable baseline to start the days coaching, after these few warm up climbs we started with a little connectivity, body management and movement skills and moved onto some more advanced techniques before letting the group loose on some lead climbing, it was here we began to look at the physchological aspects of being on the sharp end!!! All the group responded well to the day and are looking forward to putting into practice there new found techniques tomorrow.

Posted in Mountain adventures

Bolt clipping in North Wales

Wednesday gave us the other half of the Army group who were looking forward to a relaxed day as they had already completed there qualifying climbs. We headed to Penmaen head near Old Colwyn for a day bolt clipping in the sunshine, the group based themselves in the flowstone wall area and we split the them into 2 separate teams, half to play on top ropes to work on technique the other half went off to bag some leads!

A great day had by all with everyone having a go at the 2 classics of the crag, Flowstone shuffle and go with the flow

Posted in Mountain adventures

An Introduction to North Wales Rock

On Tuesday the flock were split into two groups half would go to the Indy wall for the first round of qualifying the other half were presented to us to take out to do some coaching on sport climbing ready for the next day. We headed to Castle inn Quarry an ideal venue with a good mixture of grades for the group! for some it would be there first experiance of outdoor sport climbing and a little bit of an eye opener.

We started off by throwing some top ropes in whilst talking through a few coaching points about clipping and resting!! the morning was then spent on warming up and coaching of body awareness, connectivity and body management. In the afternoon we began with some lead climbing coaching and the group got fully stuck in, for some there very first leads outdoor! The day was a great success and hopefully would pay dividends for the next days qualifying.


Posted in Mountain adventures

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